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Geranium - Ann Thompson

The Geranium 'Ann Thompson', displays gold tinted foliage which forms a low-spreading mound that gives rise to a profusion of 1 wide, dark magenta f... more

Geranium - Bertie Crug

The Geranium 'Bertie Crug' is a lovely, easy to grow little perennial Geranium with chocolate leaves and pink flowers. Blooms all summer and create... more

Geranium - Biokovo

The Geranium ‘Biokovo’, Geranium x cantabrigiense, produces white flowers with light pink veins and stamens. With its beautiful dark green foliage,... more

Geranium - Brookside

The Geranium ‘Brookside’ has rich, sapphire-blue flowers that bloom from June till August. With its beautiful dark green foliage, it has a plant wi... more

Geranium - Johnsons Blue

The Geranium ‘Johnson's Blue’, Geranium x 'Johnson's Blue', has rich sky-blue flowers that fade to pear gray as they mature, blooming from June til... more

Geranium - Patricia

The Geranium 'Patricia' is a vigorous sterile hybrid of G. psilostemon, and an exceptionally long bloomer. Magenta flowers - superb mid-border plan... more

Geranium - Pink

The Geranium ‘Pink’, Geranium sanguineum, has a rich magenta mallow-like flower that blooms from June untill August. With its beautiful dark green ... more

Geranium - Sanguineum Album

The Geranium ‘Sanguineum Album’, Geranium sanguineum, produces pastel blooms. With its beautiful dark green foliage, it has a plant width of 18-23”... more

Geranium - Tiny Monster

The Geranium 'Tony Monster', Hybrid of G. sanguineum, is sterile so it flowers nonstop June through August. The blooms are large and are a bright m... more

Geraniums are one of the most reliable plants grown in the home garden. They can be obtained in flower in late spring and will add color to the garden until frost. Some plants become quite large, with huge flowers; others are smaller.  A late-May planting will be more satisfactory as the plants will establish better.

Plant geraniums where they will receive sunlight for best flower production. Plants will grow in partial shade, but flowering is reduced even though foliage is produced. Select a site where water drainage is good. Geraniums will grow in almost any type of soil if well-aerated and porous. This means that heavy clay soils should be improved by adding organic matter each year. An inch of coarse sphagnum peat moss, partially-rotted manure, or compost spaded in when preparing the beds is ideal.  

Plants should be set in the soil no deeper than the depth they were growing in the pot. If possible, plant more shallow. If you plant too deeply, stem rot will usually kill the plant.


Once planted, firm the soil around the roots. Be careful not to injure the stem of the plant since this provides an opening for diseases to enter. Water thoroughly after planting. Liquid fertilizers such as 20-20-20, 15-30-15 should also be applied at the rate recommended on the package. Water after applying fertilizer, not only to get it into the soil where the roots of the plant can get it, but also to avoid burning. Any fertilizer that gets on the foliage of the plants should be sprayed with water.



Geraniums are hardy perennials and should not be confused with annual geraniums which are in the genus pelargonium. The perennial geraniums grow 4 inches to 2 and a half feet tall depending on the species grown. The leaves are cut and can be almost fern-like. The smaller species may be used in the rock garden. Taller types are not invasive like some other perennials. The flowers are usually 1 to 2 inches in diameter. Flowering is best when the plants are grown in full sun although they tolerate some shade. 'Johnson's Blue' will produce vivid blue flowers over a long period of time if the spent blossoms are regularly removed.

Geranium seeds will germinate without light. Just sow them in flats of potting mix, cover with plastic, and put them in a warm place for 10-14 days (or until they've sprouted). Then remove the plastic and place them in a brightly lit area. Geranium seeds prefer heat (70F) when germinating.

Geranium ibericum is one of the hardy geraniums and should flower all summer and into the fall. Pinching off the spent flowers should encourage more blossoms. The plants grow best in full sunshine and get along with only a little water and very little fertilizer. Allow the first inch of soil to dry out before applying water to your geraniums, and use a low-nitrogen fertilizer in mid-summer. (5-10-10 is a complete fertilizer that's low in nitrogen). Stressing the plants just a little should result in more blooms. (The last thing a plant does before it dies is set seed to continue the species - it has to produce flowers in order to set seed.)

As a group the scented geraniums are not difficult to grow as houseplants on a sunny window sill. The rose scented is a favorite and seems to be quite vigorous, for example. 


These plants need a bright location, grow well in a good quality soilless potting mix, need to be watered only when the soil begins to dry out a bit, and can be fertilized during the growing season with an all purpose water soluble fertilizer for houseplants according to the label instruction.


The most common problems are lack of light, overwatering, and overenthusiastic repotting before they have outgrown the old pot. The plants can be trimmed back and pinched as needed to encourage bushiness, this is usually done as a routine thing each spring because they tend to get leggy during the shorter winter days, and then occasionally if needed during the summer. 


They can be summered outside if you like, set them in a partial shade, dappled light or morning sun location. (Full sun all day is usually too much for them.) Many of the scented geraniums tend to stay on the small side and the blooms are not too exciting as a rule, so the decorative appearance of the foliage can be important in your selection process. 


Cuttings are easily rooted and many people enjoy collecting and sharing the various types. 


Geraniums as a houseplant can be propagated by cuttings. The best time to try is in the spring. Take a branch tip about four to six inches long, cutting just below a node or the spot where leaves emerge from the stem. 


Remove any leaves from the bottom two thirds of the piece, and let it sit out in the air for a day or two to callous a bit. 


Then dip the cut end in rooting hormone (sold in garden centers) and stick it upright into a clean pot of barely damp soilless potting mix. About a third of the cutting should be above the soil.


Water it lightly to eliminate air pockets and wrap it in clear plastic or set a plastic dome over top, and put the pot in a warm bright spot out of direct sun. (Direct sun would overheat it.) The cover should maintain humidity, but open it occasionally to check that the soil is still barely damp and to allow for air exchange. Prop it open if there is excessive condensation. Roots should form in a few weeks. Gradually remove the cover and move the plant into very bright direct light and begin fertilizing with a dilute water soluble fertilizer. 


These plants are so much fun, why not try one or two and see how it works for you!










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